I still remember the first time I went diving like it was yesterday. I’d just arrived in Koh Tao, all wide-eyed and sunburnt, armed with a cheap underwater camera and dreams of swimming with turtles. The dive shop was this tiny place tucked between a pancake stall and a reggae bar. The gear looked alright. At least, I thought it did.
We kitted up, did our buddy checks, and waddled down to the beach like nervous penguins. By the time we were ten metres under, I felt like I’d stepped into another world. But just ten minutes in, I realised something wasn’t right. My mask kept fogging up, the snorkel tasted like an old sock, and my BCD inflator button stuck every time I pressed it. I surfaced early, frustrated and a bit shaken.
Back on land, the instructor gave the gear a once-over. “Yeah,” he muttered, pulling a stringy lump of seaweed from the mouthpiece, “this one’s overdue for a rinse.” That sentence stuck with me far longer than the dive itself.
Since then, I’ve clocked hundreds of dives across reefs, wrecks, caves, and open seas. I’ve learnt that good diving isn’t just about buoyancy skills or having a GoPro strapped to your head. It’s about trusting your equipment—knowing it’s clean, working properly, and won’t let you down when you’re twenty metres underwater with a strong current and a tank that’s slowly emptying.
Diving gear takes a proper beating from salt, sun, sand, and body oils. Sweat, sunscreen, even pee—yeah, let’s be honest, it happens—get soaked into wetsuits. If you don’t clean your kit properly, the risks build up quickly. And I’m not just talking about a bad smell or cracked rubber. I’m talking infections, equipment failure, and the kind of slow damage that shortens the life of gear you spent a small fortune on.
This article covers everything I’ve learnt—often the hard way—about keeping diving gear in top shape. From mouthpieces to weight belts, wetsuits to tanks, I’ll break down the best way to clean each bit, why it matters, and how skipping just one rinse can cost you more than you’d think. Whether you’re a weekend diver or a certified instructor, it pays to treat your gear like the life support system it really is.
Let’s get into it.
Why Cleaning Matters More Than You Think
It’s easy to brush off gear cleaning as just another boring post-dive chore. After all, the dive’s done, the adrenaline’s faded, and the nearest cold pint or beach hammock is calling your name. But here’s the truth—neglecting your kit isn’t just lazy, it’s risky.
Every single item you use underwater is exposed to salt, bacteria, sand, and in tropical locations, algae and tiny parasites too. Salt is especially vicious. It doesn’t just sit there looking pretty—it corrodes metal, eats away at stitching, and dries out rubber and silicone until they crack and split. Once that process starts, it’s hard to reverse.
I’ve seen it all—hoses that burst mid-dive, regs that jam up, zips that won’t budge, and wetsuits that stink so bad no one will sit next to you on the boat. Most of these problems have the same root cause: poor maintenance.
One mate of mine skipped rinsing his gear for a few dives in the Red Sea. Thought he’d “give it a proper wash at the end of the trip”. Big mistake. By dive six, his regulator was spitting water and his BCD inflator button started sticking mid-descent. We aborted that dive, hauled him up, and spent the rest of the day flushing the salt out while everyone else went diving.
Cleaning isn’t about being fussy or showing off your OCD streak. It’s about safety and longevity. A clean reg breathes smoothly. A rinsed BCD inflates and deflates exactly when you want it to. A well-maintained wetsuit won’t give you skin rashes or stink of mildew halfway through a dive holiday.
Let’s not forget the health side of things either. Mouthpieces, masks, and snorkels sit directly against your face and in your mouth. If they’re not cleaned properly, they can become a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. I’ve heard horror stories—divers getting ear infections, sore throats, or full-blown conjunctivitis after using gear that looked fine but had been shoved into a dive bag wet and forgotten for a week.
Whether you’re renting gear or using your own, cleanliness isn’t optional. It’s the first line of defence against the elements, the environment, and your own human biology. You wouldn’t wear sweaty gym clothes over and over without washing them, right? Diving gear deserves the same respect—if not more.
The Core Cleaning Principles For All Gear
There’s no one-size-fits-all cleaning method, but there are a few golden rules that apply across the board. Think of these as your diving gear commandments. Ignore them at your peril.
1. Rinse with fresh, cold or lukewarm water immediately after use
Saltwater is your gear’s worst enemy. It creeps into every crevice and dries into sharp little crystals that scratch, crack, and corrode. As soon as you finish your dive, rinse your gear thoroughly with clean, fresh water. Don’t wait until you get home. If you’re still on the boat, use the dunk tank—unless it’s full of everyone else’s grime, in which case, maybe wait for the shore hose. Just don’t leave your gear to dry with seawater still clinging to it.
2. Don’t use harsh detergents or bleach
That bottle of kitchen cleaner might get the mould off your tiles, but it’ll destroy your wetsuit lining or damage the inner valves of your reg. Stick to mild soaps—baby shampoo is a favourite among divers for a reason. For more thorough cleans, look for purpose-made gear cleaning solutions designed to be gentle on rubber, silicone, neoprene, and plastic.
3. Dry it properly—out of direct sunlight
Sunlight might seem like nature’s dryer, but UV rays degrade most diving materials over time. Wetsuits go brittle, plastic clips weaken, and rubber seals crack. Dry your gear in the shade somewhere ventilated. Make sure it’s completely dry before packing it away—especially if you’re storing it for more than a few days.
4. Disassemble where possible
Rinse everything individually. Don’t leave your reg attached to the tank. Take apart your fins if they’ve got removable foot pockets. Open zips, unclip hoses, and separate components. Water needs to reach every part, especially areas that trap grime like velcro, zips, and buckles.
5. Inspect while you clean
Cleaning is a great excuse to have a proper look at your gear. Are there signs of fraying on your BCD straps? Is the mouthpiece chewed through? Are your mask straps still stretchy? Catching issues early can stop a minor fault turning into a dangerous failure mid-dive.
6. Store it right
Once your gear is clean and dry, store it somewhere cool, dry, and out of direct sunlight. Keep regs in their own bag or box, coiled loosely to avoid strain on the hoses. Hang wetsuits on thick hangers to stop creasing. Don’t chuck everything into one bag and forget about it till your next trip—that’s how mildew wins.
7. Make it a habit, not a hassle
The best divers I know clean their kit like clockwork. It’s part of their post-dive ritual—just like logging their dives and checking their air consumption. Once you get into the habit, it becomes second nature. You’ll know your gear’s condition inside out, and you’ll spot anything odd before it becomes dangerous.
Cleaning Your Diving Gear – One Item At A Time
Every bit of your dive kit serves a purpose, and each piece needs its own kind of attention. It’s not just about scrubbing the muck off—it’s about understanding how each item works, what can go wrong, and how to keep it safe, comfortable, and reliable.
Let’s go through your gear, top to bottom, one item at a time.
Mask and Snorkel
Masks and snorkels look simple enough, but they’re breeding grounds for bacteria if you’re not careful.
What to do:
Rinse both thoroughly in warm fresh water after every use. Pay close attention to the skirt (the soft silicone bit that seals around your face) and the inside of the snorkel tube. If there’s sand or grit stuck in there, swish it around with water and let it drain out naturally—don’t jab anything sharp inside.
Once a week or after a long trip, soak them in a mild solution of baby shampoo or gear-safe cleaner for a deeper clean. Rinse off the soap thoroughly.
Things to watch for:
- Mould build-up inside the snorkel mouthpiece.
- Tiny cracks in the silicone skirt.
- Lenses fogging more than usual (which could mean residue build-up).
Regulator and Octopus
These are your lifeline underwater. You can’t afford to mess this bit up.
What to do:
Always replace the dust cap and make sure no water enters the first stage. Rinse the second stage (the bit you breathe from) in fresh water, but never press the purge button while rinsing—this could force water into the valve.
Soak the reg and octopus in a tub of lukewarm fresh water for 15–30 minutes. Swish gently to get rid of salt and grit. Dry with a towel, then hang the hoses loosely in a shaded spot to air dry.
Things to watch for:
- Sticky purge buttons.
- Cracked or worn mouthpieces.
- Hoses with bulges or flaking.
If anything seems off, take it to a technician. Regulators should be professionally serviced at least once a year—don’t try to fiddle with the inner workings yourself.
Buoyancy Control Device (BCD)
Your BCD puts up with a lot—saltwater, sun, rough handling, and all those sweaty boat rides.
What to do:
Rinse the outside with fresh water. Pay special attention to zips, clips, and pockets where sand gathers. Then, fill the bladder about a third with clean water through the oral inflator. Swish it around inside, inflate the BCD fully, and let the water drain out through the dump valves. Do this a couple of times to flush everything properly.
Leave it inflated to dry. This helps prevent the inner lining from sticking together or growing mildew.
Things to watch for:
- Stiff inflator buttons.
- Leaky dump valves.
- Rust on D-rings or weight pocket clips.
Wetsuit or Drysuit
Wetsuits, especially, can get really grim if left damp. They hold sweat, seawater, and whatever was floating about in the water with you.
What to do:
Rinse immediately in fresh water. If possible, use a wetsuit shampoo—it helps keep the neoprene soft and gets rid of any odour. Turn the suit inside out and rinse again.
Hang the suit inside out on a wide hanger, out of the sun. Flip it back the right way once the inside’s dry. Never fold it—it causes creases and weak spots.
For drysuits, follow the same rinse method but take care with the seals and zip. Use zip lubricant regularly and inspect for nicks or small holes.
Things to watch for:
- Funky smell (a sign of bacteria or mildew).
- Cracked neck and wrist seals on drysuits.
- Weak seams or worn knee pads on wetsuits.
Gloves, Boots, and Hoods
These bits are often forgotten, but they’re just as prone to stink and breakdown.
What to do:
Soak in a bucket of warm, fresh water with a wetsuit shampoo or mild detergent. Give them a gentle hand scrub if they’ve got sand or algae stuck on. Rinse thoroughly.
Let them air dry naturally—don’t stick them on radiators or near heaters. Boots should be stood upright if possible, so they dry inside and out.
Things to watch for:
- Cracked neoprene.
- Peeling soles on boots.
- Frayed stitching or loosened seams.
Fins
Tough and straightforward, but still worth looking after.
What to do:
Rinse with fresh water, especially around the foot pockets and straps. If you’ve been diving from a shore, check the blades for grit, stones, or nicks from walking on rocky surfaces.
Dry fully before packing away. Store flat or upright, not bent or under weight.
Things to watch for:
- Cracked rubber straps.
- Sand caught in buckles.
- Warping from heat exposure.
Weight Belts and Integrated Weights
These don’t need babying, but they do need a rinse.
What to do:
Rinse in fresh water, check the belt and pouches for wear and tear. Some integrated weight systems have velcro or zip closures—these can get clogged with sand or salt.
Dry completely and make sure any metal buckles are rust-free.
Things to watch for:
- Rusty clips.
- Damaged velcro.
- Cracked lead weights.
Dive Computers and Gauges
These are delicate. You need to balance cleaning with care.
What to do:
Rinse with fresh water and use a soft toothbrush to clean around the buttons and sensors. Avoid pressing the buttons while underwater or during rinsing unless the manufacturer says it’s safe.
Pat dry gently. Store in a padded bag when not in use.
Things to watch for:
- Fogging under the screen.
- Slow or glitchy response.
- Battery corrosion in compartments (for those using user-replaceable batteries).
Knives, Shears, and Tools
Any metal tool can rust in a flash if ignored.
What to do:
Disassemble if possible. Rinse thoroughly, soak briefly in warm water, and dry fully. Apply a light coat of silicone grease or oil on moving parts and hinges. Store separately in a dry pouch or case.
Things to watch for:
- Rust at the joint or blade tip.
- Dull edge.
- Loose grip or handle damage.
Torch (Dive Light)
A dive light that fails during a night dive is not fun.
What to do:
Rinse with fresh water, especially around the lens, switches, and battery compartment. Make sure the O-rings are intact and not pinched or dry. Open it up when dry and store the batteries separately if not in use for a while.
Things to watch for:
- Stiff switches.
- Leaking seals.
- Corroded battery terminals.
The Right Way To Clean – Step By Step
Cleaning your dive kit isn’t just about giving things a rinse and chucking them in the cupboard. There’s an order to it that makes the job smoother and safer. Follow this routine after every dive trip and you’ll get fewer breakdowns, less mould, and a longer lifespan on your gear.
1. Start With a Freshwater Soak
Find a tub, bath, or large bucket—anything that’ll hold enough fresh water to fully immerse your gear. Avoid using boiling hot water, as it can damage rubber, neoprene, and certain plastics.
Submerge your BCD, fins, wetsuit, gloves, boots, snorkel, mask, and regulator. Let them soak for 15–30 minutes to loosen salt crystals and grit. If you’ve got a gear-friendly cleaner (like wetsuit shampoo or a dive-specific soap), now’s the time to add it.
Pro tip: Use a separate soak for your regulator and computer to avoid banging them against other gear.
2. Rinse One Item at a Time
Once the soak’s done its job, take each item out one by one and rinse it under running water. Focus on the nooks and crannies—valves, buckles, pockets, seams. Use a soft toothbrush to reach small areas and avoid using anything abrasive.
If you’re dealing with silt or algae, especially from quarry dives or river dives, be patient. It might take more than one rinse to clear.
3. Flush Internals
Your BCD bladder and regulator need a bit more than a surface rinse.
For the BCD: Pour a bit of clean water into the oral inflator, swish it about inside the bladder, then drain through all the dump valves. Do this twice.
For the regulator: Soak only the second stage and hoses. Do not press the purge button while it’s wet, and keep the first stage sealed with the dust cap.
4. Dry Everything Properly
Let your gear dry naturally in a shaded, ventilated space. Never leave it in direct sunlight—it’ll cook the rubber, fade colours, and dry out seals.
Hang your wetsuit inside out on a wide hanger. Place boots and gloves upside down so air gets inside. Lay fins flat or stand them on their sides. Keep regulators and computers on a clean, dry towel.
Don’t rush this bit. Packing damp gear into a bag is a one-way ticket to the land of mildew and stink.
5. Inspect While You Clean
Cleaning time is also inspection time. Check straps, zips, hoses, valves, and buckles. Make sure nothing’s about to break next time you’re 20 metres down. You’ll often spot problems during a rinse—cracks, odd noises, stiffness, or just general wear and tear.
6. Store It Right
Once everything’s bone dry, store it somewhere cool, dark, and dry. Hang up your suit and BCD, coil your regulator loosely, and keep electronics in their cases.
Keep silica gel sachets or dehumidifying packs in your storage area if you live somewhere damp—like, well, most of Britain.
Special Cleaning Considerations
Sometimes a standard rinse won’t cut it. Depending on where you’ve dived and what’s happened, you might need to step it up a notch.
Contaminated Water
Diving in questionable conditions—urban rivers, near sewage outflows, or post-storm seas—means your gear could have been exposed to bacteria, fuel, or chemicals.
What to do:
- Use an antibacterial cleaner or wetsuit disinfectant during your soak.
- Double rinse everything.
- Pay close attention to soft materials (like masks and wetsuits) that hold smells and microbes.
If anything still smells off or causes skin irritation afterwards, bin it or take it to a pro cleaner.
Urine in Wetsuits or Drysuits
It’s not a popular topic, but let’s be honest—everyone’s done it. The warmth is great at the time. The smell after? Not so much.
What to do:
- Soak in cold water first to dilute.
- Then wash with wetsuit shampoo that contains enzymes designed to break down odours.
- Rinse thoroughly and dry inside out.
Avoid hot water—it cooks the bacteria in rather than washing it out.
Rinse Tanks and Shared Facilities
If you’re rinsing gear at a dive centre, chances are fifty people before you did the same. You’re not really washing the gear—you’re just sharing their leftovers.
What to do:
- If the rinse tank smells off or looks grimy, avoid it.
- Always rinse your reg, snorkel, and mask again once you get home.
- Consider using your own freshwater jug or collapsible tub on trips if you want to be sure.
Shared or Rented Gear
You might be cleaning gear you don’t own, especially if you’re renting abroad. Always give shared kit a thorough rinse and sniff test before use. Post-dive, it’s polite to return it clean, but it’s also worth double-rinsing your mouthpieces and masks for your own peace of mind.
What to do:
- Use an antibacterial wipe or mouthpiece spray.
- Don’t rely on dive shop tanks to get rid of whatever the last person did.
Mould and Mildew Removal
Found something furry or spotty growing in your BCD or wetsuit? That’s mildew, and it needs attention.
What to do:
- Soak in a wetsuit disinfectant or a very diluted white vinegar solution (no more than 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water).
- Rinse twice with clean water.
- Air dry fully in shade.
Be cautious—vinegar can degrade some rubber seals. Test a small patch first.
Battery Leaks in Dive Lights or Computers
Nothing ruins a dive light like a battery that’s leaked all over the inside.
What to do:
- Remove batteries immediately.
- Rinse the battery compartment with distilled water and pat dry.
- Use a cotton swab to clean contacts with isopropyl alcohol (surgical spirit).
If corrosion is bad or spreading, you may need to replace the torch or computer. Most warranty policies don’t cover battery mishaps.
Maintenance Routines That Keep You Dive-Ready
Keeping your gear spotless is one thing. Keeping it in working shape week after week is another. Maintenance is where cleaning becomes habit—not just an afterthought after a weekend dive.
Checklists Beat Memory
I learned this the hard way in Malta. I was suiting up for a wreck dive when I realised my inflator hose was cracked. I’d rinsed my BCD a dozen times, but never checked that hose.
Since then, I’ve kept a checklist—laminated, attached to my gear bag. It walks me through:
- Rinsing and drying
- Visual inspection of zips, hoses, seals
- Functional checks (BCD inflates/deflates, reg breathes evenly, clips fasten)
- Battery levels on torches and computers
- Lubricating O-rings or zips if needed
Print one off. It takes seconds to glance through, and it’ll save you from nasty surprises.
Weekly, Monthly, Yearly Habits
If you dive a lot, think in layers:
- Every week: Rinse and dry thoroughly. Check straps, zips, and seals. Recharge torches and computers.
- Every month: Take a deeper look. Pull your regs out of storage. Inflate your BCD fully and leave it for a few hours to check for leaks. Wash wetsuits with proper shampoo.
- Once a year: Get your regulators serviced by a pro technician. Same with your BCD. Replace mouthpieces, hoses, and straps if they show wear. Replace batteries before trips.
The Big Red Flags
If you notice any of these, take action before your next dive:
- Rust or green corrosion near metal parts
- Cracks in silicone or rubber seals
- Sticky zips that won’t slide smoothly
- A strong smell, even after a clean
- Air leaks, slow deflation, or odd sounds in your BCD or reg
Better to deal with it in your shed than halfway down a wreck.
Storage Like a Pro
You wouldn’t store your car with a brick on the accelerator. Same goes for dive gear—don’t just chuck it in a bag and forget it.
- Store your wetsuit hanging, zipped up, in a wardrobe or gear closet.
- Lay regulators flat in a dry cupboard.
- Keep fins vertical or hung by the heel strap.
- Use breathable bags, not plastic.
- Add a few silica gel packets to keep the moisture down, especially if you live near the coast or in a damp bit of Britain (so…most of us).
FAQs About Cleaning Diving Gear
We get these questions all the time. Here’s the straight-talking answers.
Can I use washing-up liquid to clean my gear?
Nope. Most household soaps are too harsh and strip the natural oils from neoprene, rubber, and silicone. Use a dive-specific cleaner or a gentle baby shampoo if you’re stuck.
How often should I clean my gear?
After every dive, no exceptions. If you’ve done multiple dives in one day, you can wait until the end—but don’t let salty, sandy gear sit overnight.
What about dive computers and torches?
Rinse them carefully in fresh water, but don’t soak them unless the manufacturer says you can. Always dry them completely before opening battery compartments. And check O-rings before sealing them up again.
How do I clean the inside of a BCD?
Fill it halfway with fresh water using the oral inflator, swish it around, then drain through all the dump valves. Do it twice. Never use hot water or soap inside the bladder.
My wetsuit smells like old fish—help?
Soak it in cold water with wetsuit shampoo that breaks down odours. Let it soak for a good half hour. Rinse well and dry inside out. If it still stinks, you might need to replace it.
Can I machine wash or tumble dry any of my gear?
No. Never. The agitation, heat, and detergent will destroy most dive gear. Stick to soaking, rinsing, and air-drying in shade.
Do I need to clean gear after freshwater dives?
Yes. Freshwater might not have salt, but it has minerals, silt, algae, and bacteria that still need to be washed away.
Final Thoughts On Staying Safe And Dive-Ready
I still remember my first proper kit—second-hand fins, a leaky mask, and a wetsuit that smelt like the bottom of a boat. Back then, I didn’t know how to care for gear, and to be honest, I didn’t see the point. That changed after I had a mouthful of seawater on a 12-metre dive because my second stage failed.
These days, I treat cleaning and maintenance like packing a parachute. It’s not a chore—it’s peace of mind. A well-rinsed reg, a clean wetsuit, a spotless BCD… they don’t just last longer, they feel better. They remind you that you’re prepared.
Your gear is your lifeline. Whether you’re diving wrecks off Cornwall, reefs in the Red Sea, or a murky British lake with visibility like soup, you need to trust what’s strapped to your back.
Take the time. Do the clean. Make it routine. Your future self—sitting in a dive boat somewhere beautiful, knowing your kit’s spot-on—will thank you for it.
Now that you are ready for one the best summer activities, how about you turn your attention to winter? Check our comprehensive guide to ski and snowboard gear cleaning!